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 Some
Things Age Better Than Others
Padri Cucina Italiana
It seems hard to believe, but Padri
Cucina Italiana has now been open since
1998 across the street from the Mann Theater in Agoura. At that time the
odds of success seemed minimal.
The location, a former gas station in front of a rustic house had been
a graveyard of restaurants for more than 20 years. There were 4 sit down
Italian restaurants within a one-mile radius and a total of another 20…
that’s right 20, in the Conejo. That didn’t count the dozens and
dozens of pizza and sub outlets. Who needed one more mediocre spaghetti
and red sauce joint? Further, there was the distraction of a martini bar
and entertainment attached in an adjoining room. Finally, the parking was
suspect.
However the food oddsmakers underestimated the three people involved at
Padri just as the recent Super Bowl prognosticators underestimated those
three Patriots, Bellichek, Brady and Novatieri.
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 Two of the Padri three, Venetians Jean-Louis De Mori and Antonio
Tomassi are the most renowned duo of Italian restaurateurs in the
Southland. Their first restaurant, Locanda
Veneta on the Westside has been noted for years for serving some of
the most creative Italian food in the United States. They have since
opened five equally successful trattorias. Beating the odds is their
forte.
Their formula for success is that the chef is a partner at each location.
At Padri, the third member of the trio is energetic veteran chef-partner Severio
Posarelli. Posarelli started his career in a Florentine culinary
institute. He was a chef in Tuscany for five years. He has cooked in
Japan, San Francisco and other Locanda offshoots. He even confesses to a
stint at super touristy and super mediocre Gladstone's
at the Beach. That shows honesty.
He now creates unique and hearty Italian cuisine loaded with
intense homemade flavors that put him in
the same class as his highly regarded sister restaurants. |
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It has not come easily, however. It took Posarelli
time to find his way. The first 18 months, the food and service tended to
be inconsistent. Plates were slow coming out of the kitchen. Now he is in
total command. The night we were there the service received from our
waiter Ramon, trained by
Posarelli, was remarkable. His wine service measured up to that of a
veteran sommelier. He amicably and explicitly described the specials
including the prices. The food was served promptly, hot and to the right
person. |
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The main dining room is romantically lit and has comfortable booths. A
side dining room is set with traditional tables and chairs. There is a
patio for use in pleasant weather. While the main room has a high vaulted
ceiling, all of the surfaces are hard edge. On a very busy night, the
level of ambient sound could be exciting to some but difficult for others.
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Our group of 4 dined midweek. The restaurant was
moderately busy but we were able to carry on a pleasant conversation. For
the appetizer we split an order of fried calamari (7.95) and steamed
mussels in a light fresh tomato sauce (off menu-10.95). The two servings
were ample for four people. The calamari was cooked crisp and tender. The
very large order of mussels, a dangerous dish to order in many
restaurants, was fresh and sweet, the sauce savory.
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Steamed Mussels in Rich Tomato Sauce
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Risotto Pescatore with Calamari, Mussels, Shrimps and Baby Clams
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My wife ordered the special Black Cod (19.95) marinated in olive oil,
garlic, herbs and capers, baked and served over lemon risotto and a gratin
of asparagus and pancetta. I tasted it and the fish was fresh and firm
with a unique and wonderful flavor. For me the test of an Italian
restaurant is Osso Buco (17.95), which is what I ordered. It was a
beautiful cut of veal shank cooked tender to the bone with vegetables and
tomato sauce over flavorful gnocchi in a butter sage sauce. One friend had
penne pasta with braised eggplant, fresh mozzarella, basil and tomato
(9.95) which she rated as excellent. Her husband had tagliatelle pasta
with baby calamari, scallops and peas (14.95) in a tomato fume blanc
sauce. It was loaded with seafood. Sated, we split a dessert of citrus
cheesecake (6.25) with a mixed berry sauce.
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There is a wide choice of antipasti, salads and
soup, 15 unique pastas, 8 main courses plus 8 nightly specials all priced
very fairly when one considers the quality and interest of the food. The
wine list is also fairly priced and well thought out with both Italian and
California wines that complement the food. Or you can order a trendy
designer Martini from the adjoining martini bar. There is dancing to a
live band in that room 2 nights a week and a DJ on weekends . It is jammed
on weekends. The restaurant is also open for lunch.
Padri Cucina
Italiana
29002 West Agoura Road
Agoura Hills
818-865-3700
Most Credit Cards Complimentary Valet Parking Reservations Suggested |
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