2087-An American Bistro

‘Bout Time

Over the last few months, I have had a number of subscribers ask when I was going to review 2087. Since I had not dined there for a long time, I felt somewhat guilty about the fact that I could not provide a current honest opinion about a well-known restaurant.  When 2087 opened six years ago, it appeared to me and others that it had an “arrogant attitude” problem at every level that seemed more appropriate in Beverly Hills (See Below). There was also turnover in the kitchen.

Contrary to what some think, especially certain bad restaurants, I do not enjoy writing negative reviews. My basic concept is to write about good places to go. Why waste time and space reviewing a restaurant and then telling people not to eat there. That is one of the reasons I don’t bother to review mediocre chains such as Chile’s, Applebee’s, Piatti, Macaroni Grill or Rosti You may go to those places, but it certainly can’t be for the food or service. If you say you’ve got kids, take them to a Chinese or Thai or Mexican restaurant. The food will be better, the price the same or less and your children may learn about another culture while being treated royally.   

So I just stayed away from 2087 rather than write what I thought would be a potentially negative review. It was a mistake.

However, we recently had tickets for a Civic Center presentation and decided it was finally an appropriate opportunity to avoid the Center’s inevitable “bumper car” parking arrangement (Talk about potential road rages) and get a three-fer of no dents, free parking and the long delayed review of 2087.

We split an ample and beautiful architecturally constructed beet salad (9.95) similar to one created and served by Famed Jean George Vongerichten at The Trump Tower in Manhattan. It was delicious. My wife selected a New Zealand Grouper. It was very fresh, perfectly prepared, very attractively served on a distinctive plate with Portobello mushrooms, purple potatoes, olives, capers and a balsamic vinegar sauce (23.95). I selected one of the specials: fresh Lake Superior Whitefish served with fava beans, white asparagus (a bit on the skimpy side) under a light miso broth on a different but equally interesting plate.  The fish was firm and as good a whitefish preparation as I had eaten outside of Michigan. We each had a domestic (?) Pinot Grigio by the glass ($9). The Italians do it much better near Venice. .

Another entrée special was a 1½ lb. Maine lobster stuffed with Dungeness Crab. It also appealed to me… until I asked the price. It was $48. It certainly may have been worth $48. But that price was about twice any other entree on the menu. I find it difficult to understand why restaurants think that customers are entitled to know the price of regular menu items while special prices are a secret until….unfortunately  you get the bill. In many fine restaurants today, specials with prices are included on a card on the menu or announced by the waiter as he describes the food. The benefits to both the diner and the restaurant seem obvious. For dessert we split a trio of what seemed to be home made wonderfully flavored sherbet (6.95). We finished off the meal with two perfectly prepared and hot (a rarity) double esspresi.

Thomas Keller, of the now legendary French Laundry blossomed at the Checkers Hotel 15 years ago. Joaquin Splichal, at about the same time created what many felt was the best restaurant in the Southland at Patina. Patina is now part of a corporate collection that includes the Pinot group, most of which are floundering with the exception of Pinot Bistro in Studio City. Molina also worked with the fast moving local chef Claude Segal who changes jobs faster than famous basketball coach Larry Brown. One should have eaten some of the food dished out at these following three to decide whether Molina’s time spent at Tatou, The Jonathan Club and Sherwood Country Club should be considered a plus……. or a minus.

We paid the bill and since we had time before the Civic performance began, we asked the manager if she could spend a couple of minutes with us. She cheerfully sat at the table with us and answered all of my questions. We were amazed at the difference in the atmosphere in the lovely Gary Mayeda designed quiet and contemporary interior coupled with a country inn exterior and we told her that.  

We commented on the now down to earth wait-staff and generally friendly atmosphere.  We were convinced that this change from the previous staffs whose goals seemed to be to prove that they knew more about the food and the wine than the customers was a result of new management. Boy!! Were we wrong!!!

The charming manager and part owner was Joanne Bruchez. She is the wife of general manager Charles Bruchez, who opened the restaurant. They apparently have partners. Bruchez came from an English restaurant family and apparently earned his domestic stripes at two Beverly Hills citadels of “attitude”; the dinosaur Jimmy’s and short lived Tatou’s. Winding up at Murdoch’s Sherwood Country Club couldn’t have helped either.

Thank heaven, he finally seems to have figured it out and apparently recognizes that what flies on Rodeo Drive sinks into the lake in Westlake and Thousand Oaks. With the advent of Molina, 2087 now deserves to be considered in the top five of superior dining spots in Ventura County. Its walking distance location for Civic Center offerings is also a big plus.

It is now a generally accepted fact that California wines have been way over priced for the last 5 years. Are you a patriot or a fool when you pay $20 more for a California wine than a comparable wine from Australia? After all Australia has been a staunch ally in our current military endeavors.