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Serious Sensuality
in South Agoura........Seriously
MOZ Buddha Bar
Let’s face it! While the dining options in the very,
very conservative greater Conejo area have improved immensely in the last 8
years, with perhaps just one exception there have been no earth-shattering
additions. Ethnic Italian, Thai, Chinese, Japanese- Sushi dining along with
“The Dreaded Corporate Blandos” have multiplied
exponentially, but all have been pretty much in a staid traditional mold.
MOZ Buddha Bar has changed all that with almost a single flourish.
There is nothing like MOZ in menu or room design
between downtown Los Angeles and the Pacific Ocean unless you are willing to
risk the venture south and west of the Santa Monica Mountains. Crustacean
in Beverly Hills comes to mind. But the prices and the tight black leather
pants trendoid levels at Crustacean are so high that you can drown in them emotionally,
financially and even physically.
The Buddha Bar however, (better than your average
bar) can easily be found within the Conejoites comfort range on
Agoura Road across from the Renaissance Hotel. It was the former locations
of the ill fated (deservedly) Tony Roma’s and Love’s. Under
the skilled direction of aggressive entrepreneur-chef Moez Megji, it
has been totally and wonderfully remodeled. Moez is well known in the Conejo
and environs as the warm and hospitable owner of Fins in Westlake and
Calabasas, but perhaps more famous for his successful tackle of a holdup man
at Fins Westlake a few years back. It wasn’t even football season. And Moez is a
cricket player.
The source of the first part the restaurant’s name is
obvious but the second portion also seems to be whimsically related to the
owner in many ways. As you enter the restaurant, a friendly and chubby
“Lucky Buddha”
greets you. To the right is a large traditional standup bar. Contiguous to
that room is a casual lounge bar that is then flanked by an inviting outdoor
bar and dining area.
The main dining room is a knockout. A perfectly lit
young, slim but very imposing “Buddha Sitting Under the Banyan Tree”
dominates the room. Strategically hung designer halogen lamps provide
delicate illumination for the Asiatic tapestries hung on the walls of
the upholstered banquettes, Tables in the center
of the room are subtly brushed with light from well-directed recessed
ceiling fixtures.
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MOZ Buddha Bar Open Kitchen and
some enthusiastic diners |
While the room is large, it evokes that unique feeling
of exotic sensuality seemingly achievable only at one of the world class
restaurants of Southeast Asia. The riverside Jester Room at The Peninsula
Hotel in Bangkok has a similar feeling..
Though we were only two, we were
generously given a banquette for four. This gave us an opportunity to
romantically sit side by side and observe the entire room. That alone is a
good reason to go during the week around 7 PM. There are others.
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The wait staff is composed of young, attractive,
pleasant and well-trained personnel who functioned efficiently at every
level under extremely busy conditions for midweek. We must admit that we
were slightly put off initially when our server announced “My name is
Troy and I will be at your service tonight”. That’s what you might
expect at hangouts for permanent adolescents like Hooters or Chile’s but
most people go out to dinner for the food rather than to establish a personal
relationship with the server. Management later indicated that the “name “
thing was not part of their training program and would be corrected.
Immediately upon being seated, we were provided a bowl of Edamame
beans,
courtesy of MOZ, They will keep filling that bowl if you
let them. The menu is wonderful and as might be expected from the owners of
Fins, is resplendent with fish cooked in Asian styles you may have never
experienced. .
The Starters of the week were Ahi Tuna Tartar (11.95)
and Seared Diver Scallops (12.95) on the half shell in Sake Ponzu sauce
(12.95). Other appetizers included Malaysian Lamb Satay (8.95), Ahi Tuna
Tempura Roll (10.95), and Thai Crab Cakes (10.95). There are soups such as
roasted Corn and Crab Soup (4.95 a cup, 6.95 a bowl) and Wild Mushroom and
Onion Bouillon (6.95) plus salads like Asian Cashew Caesar in Ginger Wasabi
Aoli. (6.95). Portions are substantial and splittable. We split an order of
4 large BBQ Duck Egg Rolls (8.95) with Sweet Chili Sauce. They were bursting
with flavor.
The main course specialties of the week were pan seared
Black Cod with Mirin and Miso (21.95) and Green Tea Buckwheat Noodles with
Lobster and Shrimp in a Wasabi, Ginger Sauce (18..95). There are live tanks
of
Lobsters, Prawns and Crabs. Asian style steaks, chicken and lamb are also on
the menu.
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Since we had gone 3 and 0 with substantial U.S. Open
bets we decided to go for the live tanks. We were not disappointed. My wife
had a generous portion of Fresh Sweet Water Blue Prawns with Soba and
Buckwheat Noodles in a Coconut Lemongrass Broth (19.95) and I went for a
whole Dungeness Crab with Black Pepper, Ginger and Garlic (32.95). It can
also be ordered steamed or with Black bean Sauce.
As suggested by the menu we passed the food between us
family style and both agreed that everything was wonderful. I was especially
impressed with the crab since most of my previous experience had been with
frozen crab, which is usually close to tasteless. This crab was clearly
fresh, moist and flavorful. It was also abundant and if preceded by a bowl
of corn soup, could have been split between two people as an entrée. |
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For dessert we split a trio of Sorbets and Berries (8.95). The restaurant
had become very busy at this point and our dessert lingered a bit too long
in the kitchen and came out flavorful but slightly melted. Up until that
point the service was flawless. Our espressos were fine.
| The wine critic for the Ventura County Star and his wife
at another banquette hailed us and we visited with them for a few
minutes as they ate their main course. She had Marinated Salmon
pan-roasted over sautéed Spinach with Yuzu Sauce and he had Wok Halibut
with Japanese Eggplant, Long Green Beans and Shitake Mushrooms. They
each raved about their dish. |
Ventura County Star wine critic Len Napolitano
and wife Kathy on right, with friend on left |
Fins has always had a sophisticated and fairly priced
wine list and they have brought the same game plan to MOZ. Wines that match
up well are from all over the world. Many people believe that most Asian
food which tends to be spicy goes better with Thai, Chinese or Japanese
Beer. I think they are right.
Right now MOZ may be suffering from that Yogi Berra
critique of his favorite Italian restaurant on a St. Louis hill. Yogi sagely
used to say, “ Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.” |
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In spite of being open only three weeks and still in
the break-in period. the restaurant has been operating at close to capacity
almost every night. The foodies have been on the hunt. Thus, the waits on
the weekend have been long at prime time. However, the restaurant assured me
that reservations are being respected. Nevertheless, I suggest that if you want the
type of pleasant dining we experienced, try to go midweek around 7. After
a few weeks, it is then up to you. .
By then Moez Megji and his very competent staff should
have the restaurant shining like the gem of Agoura Hills that it seems
destined to become.
MOZ Buddha Bar 30105
Agoura Road . Agoura
Hills 818-735-0091
Most Credit Cards Reservations Strongly Suggested.......
Easy Free Shopping Center
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