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A New Game in TownRustico |
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| When Tomasso Barletta, the owner of top-rated Tuscany told me during a pleasant lunch one day in July that he was going to take over the Ritrovo location in North Ranch, I had mixed feelings. He and I both knew that Ritrovo had been a loser for many years due to arrogant and misguided management, high turnover of chefs and generally poor employee morale. It was going to be a tough turnaround. | |
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However, I also knew that if there was one restaurateur with the energy and skill to do the job it was Barletta. He enthusiastically described his plans for casual Mediterranean influenced bistro style food supported with personnel adjustments and a long-term commitment. It still seemed risky and in need of much patience. Barletta took over on September 7. Further, he retained the old Ritrovo menu through all of September. Thus I thought that I would wait at least the normal 3 or 4 months before reviewing the newly named Rustico to allow it to settle in and give Barletta time to work his magic. However, e-mails as well as phone and direct conversations from people that knew of my relationship with Barletta quickly besieged me. |
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They wanted to
know when I was going to do the review. They knew and Barletta knew that I
would be honest. Thus, against my better judgment, I relented and had dinner
at Rustico with my wife only 12 days after the new menu was in place.
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| The small bar at the entrance was jumping with casual diners and drinkers tended to by the long time Tuscany bar manager, Kevin Steelman. The open kitchen including the wood-burning oven in the attractive main dining room was buzzing with activity. It was still manned by former Ritrovo executive chef Maurizio Ronzoni from the Lake Como district but he is now teamed with Tuscany’s original chef also from Bari, Guiseppe Di Mola. They seem to be a terrific duet of true professionals. |
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Surprisingly, at 6 P.M, Barletta was working the already crowded room with his remarkable high energy high wire act, giving instructions, greeting old patrons, making sure the wine was right, bringing fresh pizza bianca bread and bruschetta to the tables. He left at about 7:30 to supervise a wine tasting at Tuscany. Still, the service personnel were smiling, organized, attentive and efficient. Some were carryovers from Ritrovo but seemed to have been transformed under the new management. While the room had a feeling of electricity, the noise level was low, inviting intimate conversation. |
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The new Rustico menu is innovative. It is, however, primarily rustic Italian food with some touches from the Provencal area of Southeast France. Tapas in the Spanish style have yet to be incorporated into the new menu. |
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Soups include sophisticated Minestrone and classic Sweet Onion soup with melted Brie and onion marmalade, both at $5.00. There are three classic 12” thin crusted pizzas from the wood-burning oven priced from $9.50 for the Margherita to $12.50 for Quattro Stagioni. |
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Pastas range from Vermicelli with Ragu Bolognese reportedly from Barletta’s mother’s original Bari recipe (10.50) to Risotto of the day (14.50). We split a pasta we had never had before called Truccioli (it is shavings of handmade pasta) with Scallops, Shrimps and Sicilian Beans under a sauce of broccoli, oven roasted tomato and roasted garlic (14.50). It was finished perfectly in the pan and served on a hot plate. |
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Main fish courses include Oven Roasted Sole Filet (19.75), Grilled King Salmon Filet (18.00) and a touch of Southeastern France with a Mediterranean Bouillabaisse (21.75). My wife had a dish that was recommended by Roberto Gilberti. It was Provimi Veal “ Spezzatino”, braised veal morsels cooked in a clay pot with vegetables. It was a treat for the palate. I opted for Lamb Ossobuco (20.00) made with lamb shank rather than the classic hind veal shank. It was a delicious huge shank of flavorful lamb. I would have preferred traditional risotto Milanese to the almost rigatoni style rustic pasta that was served but Barletta might argue that the stronger lamb flavor would overpower the delicate risotto. From the dessert chart, we split a dark chocolate “Tartuffo “ gelato (5.00). While not quite as intense as the gelato from famed “Tre Scaline” in the Piazza Navone in Rome, it was as good as you could get outside of Valentino’s in Santa Monica. |
| Rustico’s lunch menu is also very interesting featuring traditional salads such as Cobb (8.50), Caesar with shrimp or chicken (10.75), Nicoise with Sicilian Tuna (9.95) and Caprese (7.75). Pizzas are available from $7.50 to $9.50 along with 7 mostly unusual pastas ranging from $7.50 for Lasagna or Cappelini to $11.50 for my favorite, Linguini “Portofino” with mussels, clams and shrimp. It is a great value. Entrees range from Veal Picatta (12.00) to Imported Lemon Sole (13.00) and Hawaiian Ahi Tuna Tartar with Portobello Mushroom (13.50). |
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But I think the most interesting choices are the Panini Sandwiches. There is a Roasted Lamb, with Grilled Eggplant and Bell Pepper (8.50), Italian Tuna Salad on Ciabatta bread (8.00) and crispy Chicken Milanese with avocado, tomato and arugula on a toasted baguette (8.50). Bluntly, I was amazed that Barletta was able to turn Rustico into a smooth running operation in 5 weeks. Within 3 months Rustico could be in the top echelon of restaurants North of the Santa Monica Mountains or in Malibu. You can have a very pleasant and unique dining experience right now for under $40 if you are careful. Or you can revel in a sophisticated gustatory evening for around $100. Corkage is $10. The wine list is short but well chosen and fairly priced. Rustico1125 Lindero Canyon Road, Westlake Village
818-889-0191 Most Credit Cards |
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