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 Boccaccio’s
on the Lake
Can It Rise From the Ashes?
You may find it hard to believe but about 30 years
ago, folks used to drive 30 miles or more from the San Fernando Valley
and even Beverly Hills hoping to enjoy the unusual pleasure of lakeside
dining in an attractive venue in rural Westlake.
Those were the days when the appeal of a restaurant
was ironically based upon the arrogance of the host at entry, the time
you had to wait for a table and the condescending attitude of the wait
staff. Most of us, somehow looked forward to being punished by the all
of the above and we didn’t really understand what dining was about.
Valentino’s, Spago, Campanile and Patina had not yet been
born or were in their infancy. We were all lucky if we knew how to spell
gourmet.
Boccaccio’s had it all…. down pat. The owner
was overbearing, the waiters seemed to be selected for attitude and
heavy dishes such as Fettuccini Alfredo, Veal Parmigiana and anything en
croute were de riguer. Plus that lake. Thus the place was jammed, and
joyously …for the owner, overflowing the bar, especially on the weekends
as the food masochists poured in.
Unfortunately for Boccaccio’s times changed
about 20 years ago and people realized that they were the
paying customers. They were unwilling to be shunted to the profit center
bar while waiting an hour for a table. They also began to understand
that there was more to food than a well-done filet, frozen lobster tail,
a month old big batch frozen Osso |
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.Buco and boring overpriced pasta dishes that used
cheap packaged noodles. At the same time the choices of restaurants,
especially Italian, with better food, lower prices and pleasant
attitudes began to open up all over the Conejo
Boccaccio’s seemed oblivious. Their customer
base dwindled mostly to folks with walkers who couldn’t read the fine
print of the wine list or the menu (thus, they ordered the specials or
their regular to avoid the embarrassment) and then had two scotches or
martini’s and two cigarettes before dinner. The food on the plate was
often indistinguishable.. Almost no one we knew under 65 ever thought of
Boccaccio’s as a dining destination. The long-term demographics were
devastating.
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| The restaurant was sinking every day.
Finally and desperately it was offered for sale. 2 years ago it was
bought out by an energetic local property manager who was living in a
time warp and thus was still enamored of Boccaccio’s. He had recently
remarried and some one had given his new wife (Oh! those second wives) a
subscription to Gourmet magazine. She convinced him that with her newly
learned skills, they could turn Boccaccio’s into either the Geoffrey’s
or Gladstone’s of the Ventura County area. |
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They put in a new outside patio and attempted to tweak the menu. They
kept the old chef, the old maitre’d and the old waiters in an attempt to
placate what was left of the “old” crowd. There weren’t enough of them
still alive. Deeply chagrined they cancelled their subscription to
Gourmet and sold out to a partnership consisting of the experienced
ownership of the nearby “Landing” and the venerable “Milano’s”
of Agoura.
This new management team appears to have
credentials that show some hope. However, Boccaccio’s seems to
scream out for a fine upscale dining facility. Yet the Landing, which
does business in good weather, appears to attract diners primarily
because of its setting rather than sophisticated food. Perhaps the
recent departure of a disruptive owner will give the Landing the focus
which can then be transmitted that short distance.
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| Milano’s certainly has a long term and
successful track record. But it serves middle of the road family style
Italian food and pizza. The day we were at Boccaccio’s, it was
fronted by young, amiable and very competent Guiseppe Milano whom we had
seen as a child running around his father’s first restaurant on Reseda
Blvd in Tarzana 30 years ago. That was an early good sign. But
Boccaccio’s will need a very serious food breakthrough to pay that
big rent. |
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The overall facility may still be the most pleasant
in the Ventura County area. The restaurant is actually over the line in
Los Angeles County. The glassed in front patio is lovely and has a new
tile floor. When the weather is right, the new outside patio and menu
make it the choice of the three lakeside eateries for a relaxed lunch.
Many subscribers quickly asked us when we were
going to check it out. We did wait 3 ½ months for the new management to
settle in before visiting. Yet, there is no point in discussing the
present menu, which was essentially uninspiring, although the quality of
the ingredients served to us was fresh and excellent. |
| That’s because Guiseppe Milano told us that
they were in the process of bringing in a new chef (the current food is
being prepared by the old sous chef) from the Aladdin Hotel in Las
Vegas. Coincidentally, this new chef has a local history. He had been
the previous owner of the Landing 7 years ago and sold it to the present
owners both of whom |
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(one now gone) had previously worked for him
at North Ranch Country Club. Are you confused? The new menu is promised
to be medium priced continental. One wonders.
However, there were the unfortunate tones. The
restaurant was busy, but was very understaffed. Milano was acting as
host, bartender, waiter and occasionally busboy. The food came out of
the kitchen very slowly, orders were mixed up or forgotten, some hot
food came out cold and small errors were made on the bill all perhaps
due to the pressure of too few waiters. Unfortunately a new restaurant
must show its best face from the beginning and skimping on kitchen and
server payroll does not seem to be a smart long-term move.
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If you enjoy dining on the lake either al fresco or
in the lovely glassed in patio, Boccaccio’s is a satisfactory
choice for a “leisurely” lunch right now. However, I would wait for the
new chef to be on board for a few months before paying first run prices
for what could be rehearsal and experimental food preparation.
Bocaccio’s at the Landing on Lakeview Canyon
Road Large Open Parking Lot (Crowded at Lunch) Most Credit Cards
818-889-8646 |
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