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Still
a Bit of a Secret
Le Café
For
almost two decades, the denizens of The Conejo wandered into the inviting
garden like building on the corner of Agoura Road and Lakeview Canyon in
hopes of a pleasant dining experience. A myriad of restaurant operators
including Mariel Hemingway generally disposed daily, of dozens of
disappointed diners dourly departing and depressed over poor food and
service. John Notter who owns the restaurant property as well as Provence
and the Westlake Inn and Hotel courageously stepped in. He decided to
invest some of his significant capital and food knowledge in the difficult
task of turning a repeated loser into a winner.
He also needed a full time food facility for his adjoining upscale
hotel. His love affair with the South of France resulted in calling the
place "Le Café"
At
first the restaurant foundered under suspect chefs, amateur front
management and lack of direction. Notter then hired Aldo Saad, a chef with
credentials from Scandia, Beau Rivage of Malibu, the Beverly Hills Saloon
and Tuscany. He brought in the very experienced and energetic John Gress
as general manager. Saad gave the menu a new creative look and Gress
provided Le Café with professional front-end discipline that had been
missing. The restaurant serves about 600 meals a day since it is open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Saad, who has been around for a while
unfortunately did not have the legs for this kind of a track.
He left for the kinder pastures of the Bel-Air Country Club and a
more relaxed pace.
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Le Cafe's John Gress, General Manager (R) and Robin
Nishizaki, executive chef
(L) proudly display 1999 Wine Spectator Award
for wine cellar excellence.
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His
replacement who began this September is a young tiger, Robin Nishizaki,
26. He was trained at the Southern California School of Culinary Arts
and has worked at
Abiento in Pasadena as well as a number of bistro microbreweries around
town. His initial impact has
been to tighten up back end discipline so that now there is a consistency
and expediency to the food coming out of the kitchen. That had been a
problem with some hits and misses in the past especially during the hectic
lunch hour. Thus, his impact
on the menu so far has been restrained. It has been tightened slightly in
order to achieve those other goals.
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Nishizaki’s
training emphasizes casual French cooking. He and Gress have determined
that Le Café will live up to its name and become one of two French
bistros in Ventura County. Items that he hopes will soon be featured are
Coq Au vin and Braised Short Ribs. The
restaurant is warming to the task by offering a nightly “Bistro
Special” that includes soup or salad, a select entrée and a special
glass of wine for 19.95. They will also be offering multi course gourmet
tasting menus every night for the table at 29.95 per person.
Breakfasts
are traditional, as are the lunches. There are wide choices of hot and
cold sandwiches, salads, pasta and burgers including the new Marinated
Grilled Portobello. Prices range from 7.95 to 13.95 for any dish that has
the word Ahi in it.
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(L) Tri-Colore Salad with Imported Italian Grana Shavings
(R) Broiled Fresh Red Snapper with Wild Rice and assorted Vegetables
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Dinner
continues to be “Super Eclectic”. There is a wide range of interesting
appetizers, salads and soups including Dungeness Crab Cakes, French Onion
Soup and three kinds of chicken salad. Eclecticism reigns when Chicken Pot
Pie and Home Made Meat Loaf compete with Le Café Bouillabaisse (my
favorite) and Facon de Patron, a wonderful ½ chicken marinated in citrus
and aromatic herbs and served with rosemary potatoes and spinach in olive
oil (Italian Bistro?). There are daily Fresh Fish specials along with a
selection of red meat offerings. Prices range from 9.95 to 17.95. Under
Michizaki’s now stern hand in the kitchen and Gress’ direction in the
dining rooms, the food comes to the table in an appetizing, appealing and
well served manner.
A
mesquite wood-burning oven fires up for pizza at night.
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Le Cafe offers dining in three distinct rooms. Comfortable booth area, warm
formal dining area and heated outdoor patio.
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Thus,
Le Café is one of the most all around satisfying and pleasant restaurants
in the area. However,
beginning with a suspect descriptive name, it still suffers an identity
crisis exacerbated by a case of multiple-personality disorder, both in
food as described above and ambience as described below.
There is the front section for the casual boothy types; a high
ceilinged warm room with a fireplace for the serious diners and a lovely
greenery enclosed patio for the romantic. I think the patio is delightful
any time of the day or night.
We
will be coming back to review Le Café again soon to see how much
Nishizaki can gild a currently satisfactory lily.
Le
Café 32037 Agoura Road, Westlake Village, Most credit cards, 818-889-9105
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Impressing
the Freeloaders From The Cold Country
Coogies
Now,
that the cold waves have hit back there, the onslaught of relatives and
friends may begin. Tired of
Universal, Disney, Knott's, the bottle house in Simi or Six Rags Magic
Mountain? Show your guests, on an economy ticket, how close you are to the
Pacific, those Malibu beach houses, Pamela Anderson and the hardbody
surfer girls. Whip over famed Malibu Canyon in 25 minutes (passing the
expensive and suspect Saddle Peak Lodge) to the inexpensive Coogies on
Malibu Colony Road right next to Wolfgang Puck's famed Spago annex,
Granita.
Unlike
Westlake's Le Café, Coogies in Malibu has the psychiatrists in house to
manage the multiple personality disorder. There is only one large deluxe
coffee shop room, Malibu style. They do serve a merely
"eclectic" menu of Oriental, Latino, American, Pacific Rim and
deli to the stars that overflow (in disguise) from Granita. While the menu
may give you a hernia, the check will not. Choose from things like their
delicious and ubiquitous meat loaf or roast chicken (10.95) or go to the
top of the trendy line with seared Ahi Tuna (14.95).
You can even sneak in for breakfast or lunch disguised, as the real
stars do. It's fun and even cheaper.
Coogies
Malibu Colony Road. 310-317-1444
Most Credit Cards.
Park free in shopping center lot.
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