Wine Wisdom

Give ‘em Some Air. Let 'em Breathe

 

Our last article on “Corkage Etiquette”, still available in “Second Chances” was so well accepted that we thought we would expand upon it and uncover more “Emperors Clothes” material. (Get it?). Serendipitally, a well-reviewed film about Napoleon starring the wonderful Ian Holm is coming to the area soon.

An often-misunderstood wine ritual is the act of letting the wine breath. It is in fact not a ritual but a worthwhile thing to do with most RED wines and especially those that have been aged. But common sense should tell you that it is not going to do a lot of breathing in the bottle where the oxygen supply is restricted by the narrow neck. The best place for the wine to breathe is in each person’s glass and immediately upon arrival at the table so that the wine can "open up" for at leat 10 minutes .

Thus the act of first tasting the wine right out of the bottle is generally an exercise in futility. If the wine came from the restaurant, it is generally 5 years old or less. In all my years, I have never sent a 5 year old wine back. What difference should it make to the restaurant when the wine is tasted for acceptance since they can’t resell the bottle  once the cork is removed. They could still sell the remainder by the glass if they poured it very lightly as described below. If you brought the wine, then it is really stupid to taste it before breathing because it obviously can’t be sent back in any case.


MMaximum Proper Wine Filling Level

 The next step in futility takes place when most restaurant servers make their most egregious mistake by  filling the glass 2/3 full. In fact, depending upon the shape of the glass, it usually should be filled no more than 1/3 full or to the place where the glass is the widest. At that point more wine surface is exposed to the air and can “open up”. In addition if it is a fine full size wine glass, the curved bowl captures  the aroma and then allows you to  proceed to the next pseudo important ritual of sniffing the contents with steely eyes and pursed lips after it has been opened for 10 minutes. and dramatically swirled. Incidentally,the best way to swirl is with the glass on the table as you slowly move the base in circles. A very sophisticated and impressive technique. It gets respect every time. 

All of this is why in very fine restaurants you will see what appear to be oversized and obviously expensive wineglasses. It keeps the wine from spilling out and staining the tablecloth while being vigorously swirled. That is also why these restaurants mark their wine higher and charge more for corkage. Those glasses can cost them $8 for a fine Speigelau to $40 per glass if the latter is an all hand-blown Reidel. They must be hand-washed and a stone-handed dishwasher can quickly wipe out the profit on the wine with one slip.

Summing up: If you are really serious about your wine and have brought or intend to order a RED wine with a value over $50, you have the right to ask if the glasses to be used are the best the restaurant has available. Whether it is your wine or ordered, ask that it be poured as above so that it can breathe before you taste it. That is truly the only way that you can be sure the wine will measure up to your standards. If it is your wine there will be no problem.

The restaurant may decline to fill all the glasses if it is their wine. At that point ask that the tasting portion be poured immediately, rested for a couple of minutes and then ritually swirled heavily as described above to fully aerate it. Perhaps,  you then have gotten most of your money’s worth out of wine rituals. Accept it or reject it. However.... see  below for a further status opportunty.
 

If..... a good part of your wine life is really serious conspicuous consumption and you own those $50 Reidel hand blowns, you can then reach for the ultimate. Bring those babies to the restaurant so that the great wine you brought or will order will be served in a manner that is up to your standards.

The risks involved in lugging  6 or 8 fragile and expensive glasses back and forth are obvious. But you are certainly a risk taker to begin with to be able to afford the glasses and the wine. Got ‘em – flaunt ‘em. Think of the satisfaction of being the object of adulatory stares when you enter with your specially fitted, reinforced and insulated  Louis Vuitton multiple glass and wine carrier ( limited availability in the Central Paris Main Store only).. Oh, the ecstacy.  

* White wine rarely needs to go through that entire breathing and tasting routine except for $300+  bottles of Sauternes such as Chateau Y’Quem or Suduirant. However white wine is often served too cold and flavor is lost at those low temperatures. Remember you are not drinking a refreshing 7-Up . Wine should be savored as a food. If the white wine seems flavorless let it warm a bit. Under no circumstances put an ice cube in your wine to cool it.