It’s Almost The Bubbly Buying Season

But This Year, There is Plenty of Time

Normally, I do the Holiday Season report on Champagne at what would appear to be the more timely early November. However market conditions for the entire wine industry are in such turmoil that I think that you should be forewarned now.  

Reduced demand for over a year because of the economy, along with rampant domestic overproduction (a drive along the 101 from Santa Barbara to Salinas is akin to an ocean cruise on grapes) and the invasion of quality imports has resulted in serious pressure on prices in every area. Champagne is certainly no exception. 

In what seemed to be an act of bravado, world leader in champagne and hype Moet et Chandon has tried to raise prices during the last few months. It’s popular Veuve Cliquot label was being offered at almost $40 retail. That hasn’t held up. Veuve can be found around town for as low as $29.95. And that is the point of this early review.

Just as with the Dow- Jones or Nasdaq, no one knows for sure what the bottom is. But wine prices usually go down as retailers vie for the volume during the peak season. We are about a month away. Thus, I think that Champagne (and most wine prices) will continue downward right up to the New Year.

Promotions have already started downward on Cabernet and Chardonnay with discounts of up to 40%. With case discounts, that means that if you are intrepid, you might find your favorite wine for half price. I think that is also going to happen with champagne, as vintners, importers, distributors and retailers look at their overburdened shelves. Last year was not exactly a sellout. Except for the one exception noted below, I would wait it out.

At the French top, Dom Perignon will still be the choice of the unknowing. At around $80, it is over rated and over priced, no better than many bubblies that can be found for $40 or less. In recent years it has been riding on the past glory of its distinctive bottle and limited production. Now it seems to be as common as Coca-Cola.

If you must have it, search for and only accept the 1995 rejuvenated vintage or pass.  Moet has also consistently overproduced the aforementioned Veuve Cliquot and its premium “Grande Dame”. In recent years that old lady “ain’t  what she used to be” as a result of a calculated approach using lesser quality grapes. This year however, perhaps in a reaction to consistently negative previous ratings, the 1995 vintage Grande Dame is also an excellent premium choice. It should be about $20 higher than the best ‘Dom” price. It is worth the difference.

However, if you want to be known as a sophisticated upscale champagner, and you bailed out of the market a year ago, search hard (ask your local independent wine merchant to order this one right now) for the non-vintage miracle, Krug Champagne Grand Cuvee. It lists for about the same price ($140) or less than Grand Dame. Unbelievably, Krug was able to produce an unheard of 500,000 bottles of this cuvee value of the century. It will be gobbled up quickly, however.

If you didn’t bail out a year ago, there are now many very acceptable French Champagnes available at prices in the $16-40 range. Look for lesser known vintage and non-vintage names like Bollinger, Feuilatte, Vranken. Laurent Perrier, Pol Roger and Montebello.  They are small producers with reasonable distribution and generally better values than most of the offshoots of the Moet Empire. Buy only Brut in every case. Extra dry, sec or demi sec are actually sweet and often taste like Cooks.

With all that said, perhaps the worldwide overall value in excellent bubbly is from a premier French maker, Louis Roederer but guess what? It is produced in Northern California.  Roederer Estate is made in the classic French style, can be found wherever wine is sold, is wonderful and on occasion has been found priced as low as $15.

Other California sparklers that are alternate buys in the $13-$16 category are Pacific Echo and Domaine Chandon. Korbel makes a complete value line priced under $10. But look for Korbel Natural first and then accept Brut.