2005: The Year of The Secret Wines of Gallo

The year 2005 certainly seems to promise a very interesting and momentous 365 days………… for wine. All kinds of changes are taking place and most are positive.

First of all, it is incredible that “Sideways” a small film shot in the nearby wine country could be seriously considered for 3 Academy Awards. It is even more incredible since it is essentially a vignette of a  foursome of rather ordinary people with real life faults just struggling to get through the day as they are  brought together by varied levels of interest in  wine.  

It certainly hit home for me when I realized that the lead in the film is a somewhat arrogant wine snob whose only real claim to fame is that he intensely prefers Pinot Noir over Merlot and lets every one know it. My wife immediately said that she was amazed that I hadn’t been considered for the lead since his appearance, manner and occupation (wannabee writer) seemed to mirror mine. I countered that my age and acting skills may have been the only deterrents.  The film is as good as all the hype. Meanwhile I am getting an agent.

In an aside but relating to motion pictures, if you missed “Hero” on the big screen (It was in a short run), run out and rent it now. It is a brilliant bloodless Chinese martial arts film that is a cinemaphotographic masterpiece, superior in many ways to “Crouching Tiger- Hidden Dragon”.

The really big and continuing wine news is the proliferation of great values as the consumer benefits from the onslaught of globalization. Even with the weakened dollar foreign wines continue to offer great values and thus put downward pressure on overpriced domestics. We have already witnessed some remarkable domestic values such as Castle Rock Pinot Noir (there it is) and of course $2 Buck Chuck. In addition Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand and here have finally been recognized as alternatives to the overworked, overoaked and over priced domestic Chardonnay.

As we had predicted the force of the market place prevented France from raising prices as they have been facing loss of market share at all levels for a number of years. Champagne for the holidays was at about the same price as a year ago in spite a 15% increase in the Euro. The big margins the French have always imposed on the gullible American wine drinkers made it easy for them to absorb all the recent currency changes and still make a profit. It must be admitted however that a number of lesser French vintners have gone by the wayside in the last couple of years.

All of this overseas activities became even more evident when a prominent article in The Los Angeles Times recently reported that Gallo (again, in spite of the currency issues ) is now a major player in the international $10 prox wine market. That is where 90% of the business is world wide. They do bring in an Italian wine under the Maso Canali Pinot Grigio label at about $15. But that is about it.

Thus, Gallo has put their formidable market research machine into play to find overseas wines that fit the American taste standards. Until recently the world sent us the wines that they make for their own tastes rather than the lower tannin, slightly sweeter wine that is our taste. But Gallo is changing all that by going overseas and asking certain foreign producers to tweak the wines to American tastes or zeroing in on those that have already done so.

Bluntly, overseas real estate and labor costs, dramatically lower than the cult driven Napa, Sonoma or even Paso Robles areas give foreign producers a big edge. Then there is the cache appeal of an imported wine. Gallo’s Stanford Biz School trained management figured all that out years ago and is now offering about 10 different wines from France, Italy, Australia and New Zealand. But nowhere will you see the Gallo name on these wines …. for obvious reasons.

Gallo ships almost 1 billion bottles a year.  Of that total somewhat less than 10% comes from overseas.  That’s a paltry 100 million bottles. Most of it is in the $10 retail category. Black Swan, an Australian product is the most notable name and has been in local distribution for a number of years.

They recently introduced the Red Bicyclette French label in 2004 with offerings of Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. These wines come mostly from the Languedoc area of Southwestern France which has been  looked upon for years as the low end volume equivalent of Gallo’s Modesto stronghold. A few years past, many of these wines could be found on the shelf in France for under $2. Shades of 2 buck Chuck.  While the label is enticing only the Chardonnay should be taken seriously.

There are Tuscan Chiantis under the Da Vinci label , but you can find much better values directly from Italian vintners in either the classic of reserve category.

Not surprisingly the best choice of all the Gallo “secret labels” is the Pont d’ Avignon brand from the Southwestern France Cotes Du Rhone area where soft red values abound in the $10 category. Try their Pont d’ Rhone. But compare it with the big French names such as Guigal, Bernard and Perrin.   

So far, in spite of the volume, Gallo’s foreign adventure by their standards, has been only a moderate success. But considering the sophisticated marketing might that Gallo possesses, it seems hard to believe that they will not become a dominant factor in the often glamorous appeal of low priced imported wine.  

Thus market forces have made the choices this year are as good as ever or better. This is especially true if you are committed (with justification) to true   Champagne which can only come from the Champagne district of France. Because of the competition of the short selling season Champagne always seems to offer the biggest bang for the buck in spite of the luxury aura. It is very true this year. But it does require some “Hard Work”.

Smaller producers have leaped at the opportunities given them by the arrogance of the big names like Roederer, producer of Cristal ($175) and Moet et Chandon who does Dom Perignon ($200 plus and still overpriced at $100 at Costco). Moet has done the same hype job on Grand Dame and the now downgraded Veuve Cliquot.  Stay away from all of them under all circumstances. Especially the dreaded “Dom” as the pseudo sophisticates call it.

Look specifically and very hard for these two lesser-known premium names that are in good supply. Charles Heidseck and Duval-Leroy.

If you must have true top of the line luxury find Charles Heidseck 1990 Blanc des Millionaires Blanc De Blanc Brut. It is available at about $75 and comparable to a Charles Krug at $250-$450. (Don’t blink) It is an absolute winner and it will show your sophistication. If your dealer doesn’t have it, ask for any Charles Heidseck in that price range. It will be a good value.

The best midpriced Vintage value name today by far is Duval-Leroy. There is a good supply. It offers at about $40, Duval Leroy 1996 Brut or 1996 Blanc De Chardonnay. They are stunners. If that is in your price range, demand it. They are a big quality leap above Cristal at $175.

No matter what level you buy, choose only Brut. Any other designation even those called extra dry are not. Dryness with flavor are the signs of any fine bubbly. 

 Duval-Leroy also offers the most remarkable Champagne hostess gift of all time with its Blue bottled non-vintage “ Paris ” label. The deep azure bottle is emblazoned with a golden Leroy Neiman mural of Paris and the champagne inside makes Moet or Veuve or others taste like Cook’s. It is well under $30 and when your guest takes it out of the wine bag, they will think you filed Chapter 11 after charging it to your Visa card.

After this, you might as well go under $20 and think domestic, Spanish or Italian.

While I used to suggest Louis Roederer Domestic for its French feel and it is still a good choice, my current favorite  domestic value for 2004 is Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Non-Vintage  Brut at under $18. It is a true winner with great toasty flavors reminiscent of a quality true Champagne . There are 800,000 bottles around so look for sale prices.

Lots of people like the import feel of many Prosecco sparklers from   Italy . They are a touch sweet for me but maybe that is the appeal. Many can be found at under $10.

But, the repeat party winner for the 3^rd year in a row is Cristalino Brut from Spain . It is available at Cost Plus for $5.99. That means that a case of 12  ( 75 flutes full) for a party is under $80 including sales tax. It is stylishly dry with the toasty flavor for which the connoisseurs  search. In blind tastings at our home, many guests have thought it was Veuve Cliquot or Moet White Label. Don’t be a snob. Try it. You’ll never look at a bottle of Cooks or Andre again.

If you have any questions about all of this, e-mail me via the home page hyperlink .